You scuff up existing paint for two reasons. First, you want to get rid of any oil, grease or dirt trapped in the top layer of paint. This is the stuff that cleaners and degreasers can't get off. The second reason to scuff is to set up a physical bond for the new primer and paint to adhere to. You want to give the old paint some tooth so the new sticks better. Note: How to use an airless paint sprayer. I'm sure the guy at the rental store showed you how to use the airless (typically with his limited experience of actually painting a house), so hopefully I can offer you a couple new ideas on how to paint your home using an airless paint sprayer. When you first get the airless home, set it in the middle of the area that you would like to start painting. Typically the length of the hose is around 50'. Stretch out the hose prior to painting so that you don't have to worry about unraveling it while you are painting on a ladder. It is a good idea to have a 100' extension cord so that you can bring the airless anywhere you wish to paint without any restrictions. Tip: before you plug in the airless into the extension cord, MAKE SURE THE AIRLESS IS OFF! You don't want the airless to start pumping without paint! Now, when you go to set up the airless, before you turn it on, it's a good rule of thumb to have a second empty bucket next to your bucket of paint. I'll explain why in a second. Place both buckets side by side and place the intake hose (with the wire mesh filter end) into your 5 gallon bucket of paint while the primer hose (usually a lot smaller, about the size of a pencil'ish) is placed in the empty bucket of paint. Before you turn on the machine make sure that the airless is set to prime the machine first. There is a primer valve that you can rotate between prime and paint. A good way to see if the valve is set to prime or paint is to try this little test prior to turning the machine on. While turning the valve clockwise a couple times you will notice that the valve handle will separate from the machine in one position (leaving a slight crack between the valve and machine) while the other position the valve is close to the machine. The position in which the valve is separated from the machine is considered the primer position. Do this multiple times to see what I'm talking about. Don't worry if you keep on spinning the valve, you can spin it a million times in one direction and it won't hurt it. Remove side view mirrors (unless they're to be body color) as well as exterior door handles and locks. This will take some extra time because you need to remove the interior door panels to get these off, but it's worth it. Head lights, tail lights, marker lights and license plates should come off too, but you'll need them in place to drive to the paint shop. So bring some tools so you can quickly take these off once you arrive. Depending on the year Mustang you can just take off the chrome bezels or rings. The shop can then easily mask the headlight or tail light itself and still get plenty of paint around the edges.
Set up costs are normally included with any home improvement job, painting separate times for complete exterior painting can essentially cost double, unless agreed before work begins in painting quote. Once the drywall compound/spackle has had sufficient time to dry, you will need to lightly sand the surface of the repair to smooth out any ridges that may have been caused while "coating" the patch. Once you have the surface sanded smooth, take a wet sponge or cloth and, by lightly washing/rubbing, blend the outside edge of the drywall compound/spackle back into the wall. For a smaller repair, you can wash away the excess drywall compound, leaving only the compound/spackle only in the area where the indent was filled. For a larger hole, after filling, sanding and using a wet sponge to blend the outside edge of the compound back into the wall, it may be necessary to texture the area in order to give the smooth patch the appearance of the existing wall. Step three: go online and study the basics of shadow and light. It's a visual thing, and too complicated to talk about here. But once you see it, it'll come to you quickly. Simply Google "shadow and light in painting" and the basics will come up. Once you know these rules, you can apply it to any shape, any form, any painting. And it'll make you keenly aware of shadow and light on virtually any object on earth. It's what makes a painting three- dimensional and expensive looking. You can also buy art books on shadow and light at any bookstore. But make sure you sit down for a couple of hours and study it. It will come quickly to you, I promise. With the new outside rollers, you can paint an average-size house in a couple of days. Add an extension handle and you can roll a terrace without stooping down, reach a roof without leaving the ground.