Masonry Walls and Ceilings. Interior masonry walls and ceilings above grade may, in general, be painted in much the same manner as plaster surfaces. Here again, it is necessary to allow adequate time for the masonry to dry before applying paint and, in addition, attention should be given to the preparation of the surface. When decorating a wall containing Portland cement (concrete, for example), it is essential to take precautions against the attack of alkali. For this purpose, alkali-resistant primers such as rubber-base paints may be used when oil paints are to follow. OK, let's get started. Step one...supplies. You need a flat brush, a fan, a small detail brush and a couple of Filberts. A filbert is a rounded edge brush that lets you maneuver the paint easily without going outside the edges. Ultimately buy brushes that you like though, and make them work. Fans allow you to blend, for example. I use fans a lot and it's how I graduate color throughout my images. Everything I paint is by hand....no airbrushing or assistants. I want it to be an expression of me and nobody else. You also need an oil painting medium to mix with the oil paint to make it more fluid, and to speed or slow the drying process. Whichever you prefer. Go to the art store and don't be afraid to ask for help....they'll love helping you! A medium is merely an additive liquid which increases gloss, makes it flow easily, preserves the finish over time, keeps it from yellowing. I personally love Galkyd and Galkyd Lite. If that isn't available, buy a medium that looks like liquid amber and is kind of thick. Don't buy watery looking mediums....too hard to work with. Water-thinned interior paints are calcimine, casein, resin-emulsion, and gloss water paints. Calcimine consists of powdered whiting and clay mixed with an animal-glue binder and a preservative. It cannot be recoated, but can be easily washed off before redecorating.
Alkyd is an old interior paint made newly popular by a change in solvent - a super-refined petroleum chemical that has almost no odor. It is not a water paint. You thin it and clean brushes with mineral spirits or turpentine, or, if you want to retain the odorless feature, with the new odorless solvent. (Ask the paint-store man for just that, odorless solvent). Again, as with Warm and Cool, hair is the most important characteristic in determining Light or Deep. Women with Light coloring tend to have blond, light brown, or light red hair. Women with Deep coloring tend to have brunette, dark red, or black hair. Once you figure out which position is prime and which position is spray, place the valve in the prime position and grab the primer hose. Point the primer hose in the empty bucket near the top and at an aproxx.45 degree angle from the side (the reason for this is that there is likely to be pressure still built up in the airless and when you first switch on the airless to prime it, paint will likely burst out of the primer hose and you don't want to have it go everywhere). Now turn the airless paint sprayer on and you will see that the airless is sucking up the new paint and pumping out the primer hose. At first you will typically see a cleaning solution come out followed by your paint. When you see your paint coming out switch over the primer valve to the other position and you will see the airless pumping paint into the main hose. After the siding of your home is painted you can now start on painting the trim. There are a couple different ways you can go about painting the trim of your house. The first way is to mask off all of the trim so that you can merely spray the trim color on to your house, and the second way is to roll the trim by hand. If you are the only person painting the house I would recommend rolling the trim by hand. The reason being is because it takes a long time to mask off all of the trim on your home compared to just rolling the face of the trim boards. If you have multiple people, it would be faster to have the helpers mask everything off while you start spraying the trim color.