Now let's proceed to analyzing the center of the composition. There is an optical center in the middle - you will notice that the center of the composition, the major element will never be placed there, otherwise the scene will look artificial. The center of the composition will always be the most striking element, and the rest will just serve to make it more expressive. The artist may use various means to achieve this effect - the color contrasts, light and shade effects, size of objects and distance between them. Secondary elements are depicted with less detail and vigor - they have to bring forward the center, not block it. Notice the way your eyes travel the painting - intuitively you will start at the center and will proceed to the rest of the elements to refine the story. Water-thinned rubber-latex paint is already an old reliable, though it is only about 10 years old. It accounts for a big percentage of all paint sold and is still the most widely available of the easy-to-use finishes. One new type is a combination vinyl-rubber paint that is said to do a better job on interiors than either vinyl or rubber alone because it dries faster, lasts longer and has less sheen. Plaster. New dry plaster in good condition, which is to be finished with a paint other than water paint, should be given a coat of primer-sealer and allowed to dry thoroughly before being inspected for uniformity of appearance. Variations in gloss and color differences in the case of tinted primers indicate whether or not the whole surface has been completely sealed. If not, a second coat of primer-sealer should be applied. If only a few "suction spots" are apparent, a second coat over these areas may be sufficient.
The second part of preparation is surface prep, it addresses covering the surfaces you do not want to get any paint on. A little plastic sheeting will go along way to keeping paint off of floors, window coverings, handrails, cabinets, counter tops, etc... And, if you are not confident with your ability to paint a straight line next to door casing, baseboards, cabinets or hardware protect these surfaces using masking tape. There are two basic types of masking tape white/yellow and blue. The white tape sticks to surfaces better but, can pull off finishes on cabinets or stained woodwork. Blue tape usually will not pull off finishes but, does not stick as well, this will probably be the tape to use for most applications. Always wipe down or dust the surface you will be masking to assure the best tape adhesion possible. If you use blue tape you may need to re-rub down the tape before painting next to it, only mask off areas with blue tape that you will be painting for a given day. With either tapes, do not assume the are a force field that paint will not penetrate, use them as a reference and dry brush the paint next to the edge of the tape and avoid soaking the edge of the tape with a lot of paint, this will cause the paint to "bleed" through giving you an undesired look. If you will need to apply multiple coats of paint, on the first coat, paint as close to the tape as you can, not really getting paint on the tape. With the second coat or a one coat application, you can use the tape more of like a paint barrier and get a little more paint on the tape if you immediately remove each section of tape after painting the section, this will keep the paint from sitting on the tape and "bleeding" behind it. Also, if you get a lot of paint on the tape it is not good to let the paint dry on the tape because some paints (especially the glossier paints) will peel if allowed to dried, with the tape when it is pulled off. White tape should not be left on for longer than a couple of days and I suggest not leaving it on more than a day in areas that receive long periods of direct sunlight. Blue tape can be left on for days, if it will stay on, there again it does not stick as well and may need rubbed down again immediately before painting up next to it. A Gloss paint is easy to clean and resists scuffs better. This is ideal for rooms that are constantly used. Most gloss paints are best recommended to use on woodworks, baseboards, kitchen and bathroom walls, doorjambs, and window casings. The downside of using gloss paints, however, is the noticeable imperfections in the wall surface. Will the color fade? Now this is a very broad question with various answers. Hair color fading is due to many factors. First of which is, the ability of the hair to hold hair color. We call this porosity. If the hair is overly porous it will have a problem holding hair color. There are ways a stylist can usually alleviate this problem. Once in a while the hair is so damaged it absolutely impossible for the hair to hold color. Your stylist should always have the skills to evaluate these situations, and recommend certain conditioning treatments to bring the hair back to a normal porosity. Once you figure out which position is prime and which position is spray, place the valve in the prime position and grab the primer hose. Point the primer hose in the empty bucket near the top and at an aproxx.45 degree angle from the side (the reason for this is that there is likely to be pressure still built up in the airless and when you first switch on the airless to prime it, paint will likely burst out of the primer hose and you don't want to have it go everywhere). Now turn the airless paint sprayer on and you will see that the airless is sucking up the new paint and pumping out the primer hose. At first you will typically see a cleaning solution come out followed by your paint. When you see your paint coming out switch over the primer valve to the other position and you will see the airless pumping paint into the main hose.