Koopa Troopas, or Koopas, known in Japan as Nokonoko (ノコノコ), are a fictional race of anthropomorphic turtle-like creatures from the Mario series, as well as its sister Yoshi series. Although the term ‘Koopa’ is a blanket term for the entire species of anthropomorphic tortoises in the series, to which creatures such as Lakitu, Hammer Bros. and Bowser (who is himself referred to as “Koopa” in Japan) belong, the term is often used to refer colloquially to this particular enemy.  First appearing in the 1985 Nintendo Entertainment System game Super Mario Bros. along with the Goomba, the Koopa Troopa is among the oldest recurring enemies in the series, and have appeared in some form in all of the main games, and most of the spin-off games. When defeated, Koopas may flee from or retreat inside their shells, which can usually be used as weapons. Koopa shells are a recurring weapon in the series, particularly popularized in the Mario Kart series, in which they can be fired as projectiles against other racers. Despite making up the bulk of Bowser’s army, known as the “Koopa Troop”, Koopas as a species are often shown to be peaceful, some teaming up with Mario. An undead Koopa Troopa becomes a Dry Bones.
Like this, it will actually take quite a while to reach a number that is close enough to the yellow color you've chosen that you can't tell any difference (and mathematically, you will never actually reach an average of 4!) STENCILING. You may want designs on the walls, or perhaps even on floors and ceilings, in some of the rooms or hallway. You may buy or make your own stencils, which should be on heavy paper, stencil board, plastic, or metal. Avoid stencils made of lightweight paper which will get soaked when touched by wet paint. Your paint dealer will suggest the best paint for you to use, as it will depend a great deal on the surface over which you want to put the stenciled designs. Generally a heavy paint is used, so that it will not spread under the stencil while you are applying it. Feel free to email me if you have questions at the email addresses below. But most important, you'll find that with each painting you'll get better and better. Carry forward everything you learn from each work and eventually you'll have real talent! But only if you keep at it. And don't worry about people telling you you're crazy. They told that to van Gogh too! Sweet justice Vincent, sweet justice. He's certainly getting the last laugh, isn't he? And the world will know who Vincent van Gogh was for the rest of time. Not a bad gig.
Airless Tip: If you have somebody who can start masking off the trim, have them start on that while you convert the airless to a new color. When changing colors with an airless paint sprayer it is a good idea to have a second bucket filled half way with clean water. Place the intake hose in the clean water gently without getting the old color everywhere in the water. Take the tip out of the airless and spray all of the old paint out of the hose and back into its original paint bucket. Be careful when doing this that you recognize when the paint starts turning watery. When it does point the gun into the first bucket and spray until it looks pretty clean. It doesn't need to be perfectly clean. When it looks good, clean off the intake line in the clean bucket and get the old color off the intake line. Now place the intake line inside of your new trim paint. "Boxing" is a good method of mixing paints. Since paint is a mixture of solids and liquids, it is important that it be mixed thoroughly before using. To do this, the greater portion of the liquid contents of the can should be poured in a clean bucket somewhat larger than the paint can. Then, with a stiff paddle, the settled pigment in the original container should be loosened and any lumps broken up. After this, mix the material in the container thoroughly, using a figure 8 motion, and follow with a lifting and beating motion. Continue stirring the mixture vigorously while slowly adding the liquid that was previously poured off the top. Complete the mixing by pouring the paint back and forth from one container to the other several times until the entire amount is of uniform consistency. Knock down texture is basically a orange peel that is sprayed on and allowed to "set-up" for a minute or two then gently "knocked down" by running a 6" drywall knife over it, "knocking down" the surface of the texture. Although knock down is a flattened version of orange peel, I suggest you do not use a spray can of orange peel, the knock down comes in its own spray can and the results are much better, again experiment before spraying it on the wall. However, If ever you apply any of the textures to the wall and are not satisfied with the results, wash the texture off immediately before it dries, then allow the wall to dry and try it again. Once you have the texture applied to your liking and you have allowed it to dry, you may want to paint the patches a couple of time before painting the entire wall, especially for walls where the paint to be applied will have some sheen. Multiple coats on these areas will make them blend in, unnoticeable, with the rest of the wall. You will know if the patches need more coats of paint, because the patch/texture will have absorbed the paint causing the spot to look duller than the rest of the existing wall. The area covered by a gallon of whitewash depends upon the nature of the surface, but ordinarily a gallon will cover about 225 sq. ft. on wood, about 180 sq. ft. on brick, and about 270 sq. ft. on plaster. The formulas mentioned will make from 10 to 14 gallons of whitewash. If a smaller quantity is desired, the amount of each ingredient should be reduced proportionately.