The second part of preparation is surface prep, it addresses covering the surfaces you do not want to get any paint on. A little plastic sheeting will go along way to keeping paint off of floors, window coverings, handrails, cabinets, counter tops, etc... And, if you are not confident with your ability to paint a straight line next to door casing, baseboards, cabinets or hardware protect these surfaces using masking tape. There are two basic types of masking tape white/yellow and blue. The white tape sticks to surfaces better but, can pull off finishes on cabinets or stained woodwork. Blue tape usually will not pull off finishes but, does not stick as well, this will probably be the tape to use for most applications. Always wipe down or dust the surface you will be masking to assure the best tape adhesion possible. If you use blue tape you may need to re-rub down the tape before painting next to it, only mask off areas with blue tape that you will be painting for a given day. With either tapes, do not assume the are a force field that paint will not penetrate, use them as a reference and dry brush the paint next to the edge of the tape and avoid soaking the edge of the tape with a lot of paint, this will cause the paint to "bleed" through giving you an undesired look. If you will need to apply multiple coats of paint, on the first coat, paint as close to the tape as you can, not really getting paint on the tape. With the second coat or a one coat application, you can use the tape more of like a paint barrier and get a little more paint on the tape if you immediately remove each section of tape after painting the section, this will keep the paint from sitting on the tape and "bleeding" behind it. Also, if you get a lot of paint on the tape it is not good to let the paint dry on the tape because some paints (especially the glossier paints) will peel if allowed to dried, with the tape when it is pulled off. White tape should not be left on for longer than a couple of days and I suggest not leaving it on more than a day in areas that receive long periods of direct sunlight. Blue tape can be left on for days, if it will stay on, there again it does not stick as well and may need rubbed down again immediately before painting up next to it. If paints have been allowed to stand and hard lumps or skin have formed, the skin or scum should be removed, after which the paint can be stirred and strained through screen wire or through one or two thicknesses of cheesecloth. When you are including the finishing touches on a area with accessories, make sure that you remember this one important thing.. It is important to know which color is dominant. Do you desire for things to stay that way? Now highlight the main color with your accessories. Using accessories like paintings, throw pillows and baskets in bolder colors can help detract attention from other parts of the room.
Denver Painting Contractor, Eco Paint Specialist's of Denver Colorado Springs and Colorado's Front Range. Leading Painting Contractor having over 32 years experience, providing complete and professional painting of homes and businesses with 10's of 1000's of satisfied customers. Eco Paint Specialist's IE. Eco Paint was the first to coin the phrase Eco Paint within it's company name back in 1993, long before Green Earth Friendly Eco Paint became available to the retail sector, by 1999-2000. Eco Paint offers Free in Home Color Consultation for the perfect up to date color combination, adding value, beauty, and protection for interior painting and exterior painting. Proper rolling technique: When rolling paint on the wall, get the roller skin evenly loaded with paint and make a V,N or M pattern on the wall, this is to spread the paint across the entire section you will be rolling, then roll back across the section and even out the paint. To properly "lay off" each section, make a final pass of the section applying light pressure to the roller frame arm end of the roller skin and bringing the nap mark (mark created on the pressure applied side of roller skin) across from the beginning of the section to the end of the section, and just repeat all the way down the wall.The V,N or M pattern, will be determine by how far the paint will spread, a V is for less spreading paint and M is for farther spreading paints. Do not "dry roll", which means trying to roll to much of a section at once with very little paint on the roller. Just as important, do not apply to much, if you find you are applying to much, increase the size of the section you are painting i.e. from a V pattern to an N or a N pattern to a M. Specialist paints also include some exciting new finishes, such as suede effects, metallics and high-sheen lacquers. Judy Smith, colour consultant at Crown, suggests an accent wall in one of these to lift a neutral scheme. Crown's Feature Wall range, which includes eight metallic finishes, nine bright colours and a highly reflective Pure Brilliant White, comes in convenient 1.25 litre tins. At a minimum you want to remove all the chrome from the car. Take off both front and rear bumpers. If your Mustang has bumperettes that are body color be sure to bring them along so they can get sprayed at the same time as the rest of the car. Remove all rocker, hood and trunk molding. Same for wheel well molding and all emblems. This would be a good time to order some new emblems and attachment hardware. Also spend some time cleaning up all the chrome with #0000 steel wool. Nothing looks worse on a fresh paint job then faded emblems and corroded, cloudy chrome.