Masonry Walls and Ceilings. Interior masonry walls and ceilings above grade may, in general, be painted in much the same manner as plaster surfaces. Here again, it is necessary to allow adequate time for the masonry to dry before applying paint and, in addition, attention should be given to the preparation of the surface. When decorating a wall containing Portland cement (concrete, for example), it is essential to take precautions against the attack of alkali. For this purpose, alkali-resistant primers such as rubber-base paints may be used when oil paints are to follow. Most of us look to save where we can, especially in this day and economic conditions. House painting is no different, when it comes to saving money. A home exterior weathers from harsh elements of heat, cold, sun, and snow, and exterior paint ages over time needing repainting. Exterior trim, being that of solid wood is normally the first to show signs of painting maintenance. Many times a homeowner happens to call, asking for only painting the trim. Trim paint jobs sound good at first, but have some underlying thoughts may have not been considered. Below are things to consider when considering painting trim only. Now here comes the fun part doors and wood work. This is where most people opt to use latex which is a huge mistake. Your home is your biggest investment don't cut corners on it's aesthetics. You want the finish on your woodwork to stand out from the walls especially if you have crown moulding or waynes coating. Don't be fooled by water based products that claim to give the look and finish of oil. It's just good marketing preying on people's fears of painting with oil. Don't believe the hype as those samples they show you have 3 or 4 coats that have been professionally sprayed in a dust free environment. You will not get the same results I can promise you that. You have a choice of semi-gloss or gloss finish. I prefer gloss because to me it gives you a bit more durability and shine. Either one will be fine for your project. Now let's get started.
Proper brush technique: When "cutting in" with a paint brush you should dip the brush in paint and tap the sides of the bucket on each side of the brush, leaving a good amount on the brush so you are able to minimize the times you will need to dip/load the brush. Next, take the brush and make a one foot to two foot line down the wall about an inch or two away from the trim or surface you are going to paint up next to, this is much like taking a knife full of butter and spreading it across an entire slice of bread. After, spreading the paint over the section, go back and even the paint out evenly across the section and cut up next to the trim with the brush. You want to paint up next to the trim or surfaced to be cut-in with the paint brush after you have released most of the paint on the wall, it is easier to cut in with the tips of the brush exposed and not loaded with a lot of paint. Always use a sanding block for flat surfaces. Just your hand behind a thin piece of sand paper can leave grooves and low spots. It's also easier on your hands. For inside curves try wrapping the sand paper around a short section of garden or heater hose. This will help approximate the concave curve and help stay away from sanding through hard edges. On hard edges, like the top ridge of a fender or leading edge of a hood, you need to do this by hand. A sanding block will quickly dig right through the paint on a hard edge and take you down to bare metal. This means primer and more sanding. Our next step is mixing the oil paint. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP. Obviously you will need to buy some paint thinner, but the most important product you will need is Penetrol $12. Take a plastic quart cup that you will be painting out of and fill it up about three quarters with paint. Now mix in a couple of tablespoons of Penetrol and the slightest amount of thinner. Mix it up with a stick real good and you are ready to go. Why Penetrol? This product is the key to a fantastic looking job. Penetrol will not only smooth out the finish it will extend the time (usually about 20 minutes) before the paint starts to get sticky. This will allow you to apply a glass like finish and eliminate brush marks. We are going to apply two coats here as well so don't glob on the paint. When you are painting the door frames get used to the paint and watch your drips. After about ten minutes or so you will get used to how the paint flows and how damn good your finish looks. Allow to dry overnight before apply second coat. Tip: after you apply the second coat remove the tape and don't allow to dry first. You will get a little paint on your hands from the tape, but deal with it. By removing the tape now you will ensure crisp lines. In some case when you allow the second coat to dry you will pull a bit of the oil paint off. It is not common, but in my opinion why take the chance. Can you get a good paint job from a low buck paint shop? Yes! Professional paint pros and high dollar restorers may scoff, but it's very possible to get a good looking, long lasting paint job from a discount paint shop like Earl Scheib or Maaco. It's not appropriate for every car. I wouldn't hand them the keys to my Shelby GT500 or '53 Corvette, but for those on a budget it's a very good option. The key to a successful budget paint job is to prep the car yourself. Leave nothing to the shop except actually laying down the paint. (note: For purposes of discussion we'll use a classic Mustang as the example, but this process holds true to really any older car)